Mosefund Bauernschinken Südtirol

Also referred to as Prosciutto contadino in Italian, I stumbled across this salume while researching more sudtirol salumi.  The diversity of the salumi in that area is stunning.  I'm repeating myself at this point, but, damn, it really is amazing.  I was fortunate enough to have 2 mosefund speck hanging when I found this.  For all intents and purposes, this is speck cotto or cooked speck.  If you've made speck following techniques I've set forward, you should have no issue making this.  Here is my previous post on mosefund mangalitsa speck.  Same goes for this, cure 3 weeks, smoke 5 days using beech wood(in South Tyrol it's a more gentle smoke over the course of about 20 days), hang to age 2-3 weeks and steam, poach or sous vide to 155 degrees Fahrenheit.  I steamed it, took 3-4 hours to get up to temperature.  In corresponding with a gentleman from Val Pusteria in South Tyrol, I came to find out that their Bauernschinken recipe was a bit different than their typical speck recipe.  It seems they use quite a bit of fresh rosemary.  For my next effort, I will adjust accordingly.  As for this effort, once again, I am quite pleased. This particular leg weighed about 12lbs.  I quartered the finished product, leaving 4 pieces of roughly 3 lbs.  To show how good I thought it was, I demolished a quarter in a little over a week.  Additionally, I have 3 legs currently earmarked for this.  

Mosefund Coppa Piacetina

As I have stated many times, this is in the style of Piacenza, due to the fact that I'm not actually IN Piacenza. Of course, this is true, even in Italy of DOP items, which Coppa Piacenza is. Piacenza is a town in Emilia-Romagna in the Po river valley which also lays claim to another DOP salume, pancetta Piacentina.

I've wanted to make something in this style for quite some time, however, I have something of an aversion for several of the spices in this. I've used some of them before and I felt they were overwhelming and unpleasant, clove and cinnamon, in particular. But, I was eager to try something different, and I surmised that by using scant amounts of said spices, it would turn out palatable. I went with the usual sea salt, black pepper, sugar combo, along with the spices cinnamon, clove, nutmeg, ginger and coriander. The coppa(again, provided by Michael at Mosefund) started at 2.41kg. After close to 3 months, I removed it at 33% total weight loss. I eagerly cut into it, hoping for the best. I was beyond pleasantly surprised, I was amazed. All those challenging spices together are actually very pleasant. Absolutely nothing overwhelming about any of them. No Christmas recollection at all, which most of these spices do for me. I can aver that this salume will be a mainstay in my repertoire.

Soppressata di Calabria results

Here is the result of my previous post. Just about 2 months after it was hung to dry, most of them are ready. Yes, they taste as good as they look. I don't think there's much to tweak here. The heat is subtle, yet apparent. It also lingers pleasantly for several minutes after eating. I may just bump the amount of hot pepper powder a touch, as I'd like perhaps a little more up front heat. The amount of hot pepper paste is perfect, I think. Just the right amount of salt as well. These were removed at between 44-45% weight loss, they felt pretty stiff, but proved to still be a good deal moist inside. Overall, very happy with this and it will remain a constant in the repertoire.

Mosefund Lonzardo

Another lovely cut provided to me by Michael Clampffer at Mosefund farm. This is simply a loin with the fat cap still attached. It is a loin(lonza) + backfat(lardo), hence the "lonzardo" designation. It is the same cut as in my previous Speck di carre' post. In fact, it's the other half of the same piece. This is the loin end. I was unsure about what to do with this. So, urged by Jason to just let the meat do all the talking, I obliged and took the path of austerity. I cured this only with sea salt, cure#2 and black pepper for 17 days. Rinsed it, and, again, contrary to tradition, cased it, same as the speck di carre'. One thing I haven't mentioned previously when dealing with cuts such as this. It is about 60/40 fat/meat percentage. Conventionally, you would consider any given whole muscle would be nearing readiness at the 30% weight loss plateau. However, since this cut contains a freakishly disproportionate amount of fat, you can throw convention out the window. Super high quality fat like this contains about ZERO moisture. That being the case, weight loss does not occur as it would normally. I believe this was removed after 9 weeks at only 25% loss. I had to go strictly by feel with these. Not the fat cap either, just the lean. Again, I am happy with the fact that I cased this. I really don't think this could have turned out any tastier.

Maccularu/Buccularu/Vuccularu

Which word you choose, depends on the dialect you speak. What dialect you speak is dependent upon where you live in Calabria. These are basically just 3 whimsical names for guanciale. Yes, guanciale has been beaten to death here, but, I enjoy the cute names. This is a jowl that was originally intended for 'nduja, but, I fell in love with it and rescued it. This is another monster jowl from Mosefund. It is as simple a cure as could be. Cured 7-10 days, depending on size, with just sicilian sea salt and cure #2. Then, it is rinsed, dried off and covered in freshly ground black pepper and crushed red pepper flakes, which is what you see in the picture. Now it sits for 4-6 weeks. Quick, easy, lovely.

Pancetta dei Monti Nebrodi

This wretched monstrosity is a Mosefund mangalitsa belly a day into it's curing process. This was a bit of a process. I really wanted to find an outlet for all this lovely, fragrant oregano I have. I've just never seen it used much in curing. I researched for a solid 2 weeks and came up with this.

Monti Nebrodi is a mountain range in northeast Sicily. So, there are 2 firsts for me here. Making a salume from Sicily and using oregano in a cure. This pancetta is traditionally rolled. However, this being a mangalitsa belly, it is impossible to roll. I like flat better anyway, I used a little norcino license. This is a 2 step process. The first step is Sicilian sea salt, fennel pollen, oregano, and cure #2 and/or vinegar, I say and/or because the vinegar can either be used at this point or the next in the rinse phase. This is left for about 1-2 weeks. It is then rinsed, again, with the vinegar if you didn't use it in the first step. Then, black pepper, peperoncino and more oregano are applied to the exposed flesh and let it dry for a month or 2. See you in April with the results.

Mosefund Speck di carre'

Yep, more speck...........deal with it. I was given a couple lovely loins still with the fatback attached by Michael. One became an obligatory Lonzardo(post forthcoming) and I wanted to do something special with the second. With Mangalitsa being an Austro-Hungarian breed, I knew there had to
be a preparation from Sudtirol. Sure enough, a couple hours of digging and I came across something from one small producer in Anterselva, about 15 miles from the Austrian border. We've been over the Germanic history of the region, no need to revisit. Suffice to say, this is true to it's namesake. I literally followed my speck procedure by the numbers and applied it to this cut. However, there is one caveat. Traditionally with this cut, not

just this particular salume, the skin is left on and it is not cased. Now, I'm as rigid as anyone when it comes to the rules. But, I'm of the opinion that the exposed flesh of uncased salumi is refuse. I always end up trimming it off. So, I decided to try an experiment. I removed the skin AND cased it. Cured 2 weeks, smoked 4 days, aged 9 weeks and this is what you have. As far as the results of the experiment, I can say that the casing provided protection for the exterior and there was no need to trim the outermost flesh. But, that was predictable. What I can't say is how the lack of said outside crust may have impacted the taste. Not having anything to which to compare it is the issue. It is still plenty smoky even with the casing. It tastes about exactly how I expected....wonderfully.